Cousin count = 27

This morning was one of those mornings I just love.  It started out as a simple journey but it took a few twists by the time we were done.  The twists are nothing serious or earth shattering but exemplify why I love this part of Italy so much.  It isn’t about the “destination” but the “journey”.   This morning we would go to the cemetery (cimitero) so I could take some photos of photos.  All of the gravestones have a photo of the person.  This allows me to take photos of many family members who I have never met and who passed on many years ago.  Why do I want these photos?  I am working on the Gentile family tree and I need these photos for my project.     So Angela walks me through and I am able to collect 9 photos of family members I did not have. 

As we drove through the village we waved to Cousin Nicola as we passed the alimentari (grocery store). Nicola runs the town grocery store.  We tell him we will stop after our visit to the cemetery.  Upon returning we greet him but the store is busy this morning.  Many of the ladies of Acquavella are busy cooking for the festa on July 2^nd.  We tell him we will stop again and we decide to take a walk through the village.  We walk for less than one minute and we run into Elviro, the husband of cousin Rosolina.  I had not seen him yet on this visit so he stops the car, parks it and gets out to greet me and visit.  That is what happens here – no one is in a hurry to get anywhere – they always take time to at least greet you.   He has come from the country and has fresh figs in his car.  He gives us some and we eat them right then and there.  As we talk we see his son’s house off in the distance.  I had met the son before but not his family so off we go to meet him and see his new house. 

Roberto and family have a beautiful new home.  The first level is more like a garage but it has a kitchen in it as well as a wood burning over for making bread, pizza and other food.   The younger generations continue the traditions and ways of life – making their own bread, wine, etc.  They have large gardens as most people in southern Italy and everyone shares with everyone else.  (Every day Luigi comes home for lunch with some food, either bread or vegetables, that his clients have given him as they have heard the Cugina Americana (American cousin) is visiting.)   So we finish our visit with Roberto and family and head back to see Nicola.  We spend some time visiting then we are off as we must stop at the grocery store near Angela’s house to do some shopping.  

This afternoon we will go with Cousin Antonio for a drive up into the mountains.  Not quite sure what this is all about but knowing Antonio it will be an adventure.

Bread as it is rising

More rising bread

The wood burning oven

Bottom compartment of the stove - this is where the wood goes.

Cousin count = 22

On Thursday morning we went to the local market in Ascea, the next village south along the sea.   The markets sell everything from clothing to kitchen/cooking items to food.  The market is small but I still love to walk through them and watch the people.   One of the cousins has a fruit/vegetable stand at the market.  We stop and buy some beans, eggplant, and peppers.   Check out the size of the red peppers in the picture.  Wouldn’t you love to have those in the U.S.?  I am always amazed at the variety of vegetables I see.  There are numerous types of eggplant, which I did not know.  The picture below shows 4 types.  Each one will be cooked different and they are not all used for eggplant parmigiana.  The excitement of the day – I finally found fusilli rods.  Fusilli is a type of pasta.  I learned how to make it from cousin Angelina in 2006 and I have made it a few times for dinner parties back home.    But you need a special metal rod to roll the fusilli.  I have been trying to find fusilli rods on the internet to no  avail.  Now I finally know why.  They are just made locally and by hand – there really is not much too them – see the photo below.    I bought three for 5 Euros – about $6.25.  Today we will go to the market in Casalvelino Marina.  It will be a much larger market due to the celebration of San Pietro and Paolo (Peter and Paul).  This day, June 29^th used to be a public holiday up until 1976.  Now it is a normal day but there will be some special events such as the larger market.  I’m not sure what to expect but I am sure it will be fascinating and fun!!

Peperone (pepper)

Melanzana (eggplant)

Kitchen wares

Clothing vendors set up along the seaside

Fusilli rods!!!!!

Last evening was the big soccer match for the Euro Cup semi finals – Italy vs. Germany.  I was in Italy in 2006 when they won the World Cup so I had some idea of what to expect - the streets would be empty and all eyes on the TV.  Italy was not favored in this match.  However, Germany has never beaten Italy during any big match – so there was a glimmer of hope that Italy may be able to win.  And they did!!!  Italy won 2-1.   Check out Luigi very early in the action – his eyes are glued to that TV!  The fun part of European soccer matches is what happens after.  Everyone empties into the streets and the horn honking and flag waving begins.  Even though this was just the semi-finals this was a big deal.  I took a short video of the celebration as it passed by the house and through the town.  (see the link below)  The visuals are not that great due to darkness but the sound is fantastic!  The Italians are full of emotion for their team!!   The finals versus Spain are Sunday night.  The media is already quick to remind everyone that Spain and Italy played to a 1-1 tie in the first round of the tournament – this could be and will be exciting to watch. 

Italy's biggest fan - Luigi!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzuAAc_U5sE&feature=plcp

Yesterday morning (Wednesday) was an early wakeup call – 6 a.m. as we would leave at 6:30.  We were going to go walking in San Bernadino.  San Bernadino is not really a city but is a zone or area up in the hills.  This is where the original Gentile land is and is still in the family today.  Typically land is not sold but kept in the family and given as a gift to the next generation.   This is one of those days that means a lot to me and truly takes me back to my heritage.  This land was worked by all the Gentile brothers, even my grandfather before he left for America.  Once the 4 brothers left for America the 2 remaining brothers then became the owners of the land and it has now been handed down to the next generations.  The land is split among many of the cousins.  They all know what parcel of land belongs to each one yet there is really no demarcation.  As we walk Angela points out what land belongs to what cousin. 

To get to this land is no easy task.  We take the main roads but then park off to the side of a side road and then begin the hike up hill – and I mean uphill.   Talk about a cardio workout – OMG!  We stopped along the way – numerous times as it takes about 10 - 15 minutes to get up the hill.  Cars could travel the road but it would not be easy – and we did prefer to walk.  It was a good way to burn off those calories from all the food and wine I have been eating.

Once up the hill we then literally start walking through the land and Angela points out the different houses on the land, the various types of plants along the way and the old stone wall.  This wall was built by all of the Gentile brothers and there are many sections of these walls throughout the land.  Look closely and you will see there is no mortar or cement between the rocks.   These walls were built by hand and still remain today.  They are beautiful structures.  We spent 3 hours walking the land and did visit with Palmina (cousin).  She has a country house on the land and tends to the many fruit trees, gardens of vegetables and feeds the animals (chickens and a pig).  I do remember visiting this house back in 2001 when she and her husband were younger and spent more time here.  Now she just does day visits but works very hard.  She mentions she will be making bread in the wood burning oven in the next few days and invites me to come and watch.  I am looking forward to that.  I also find out that our family festa will be held on July 4^th!!  It will be in San Bernadino on the terrace of one of the older houses.  What a setting for a party!! 

The view as we walk up the hill

A view of the sea as we are about half way up the hill

A good visual of the steep slope

A section of the old wall

The wall along the road

The front of the Gentile house in San Bernadino

Rosemary grows wild - this plant could be 100+ years old

The green net is for harvesting the olives in the fall/winter - it will be rolled out on the ground.  Then with a long stick the branches are hit so the olives fall into the net.

Eggplant

First of all the cousin count is up to 21. 

Monday and Tuesday has been a bit low key.  I did get another lesson in making Ragu (Bolognese sauce) but did not take a video.   I realized I may not want to give away the family cooking secrets!!  So you will have to visit me in Minneapolis or Italy (when I move here) and I will cook for you.

The days have been very relaxed.   I usually go for a walk in the morning before the sun gets too hot.  I have been checking out the new stores, in the town.  Monday night after dinner (at 10 p.m.) we drove to Acciaroli, another beautiful port village.  It is a very big spot for tourists, more so than Casalvelino Marina.  It amazes me at the number of people out walking at that time – such is the Italian lifestyle in the summer.  This frazione (village) has done a beautiful job of keeping the old architecture but adding to it.  We will return in the daytime and I will be able to take pictures – night time photos do not do it justice. 

Tuesday evening before dinner we visited Acquavella.  This is my grandfather’s home town and where I hope to retire some day.  We visited with 2 cousins (sisters), Palmina and Rosolina.  Both have very green thumbs.  I am always amazed at how things can grow in very small places and with very little fuss.  See the pictures below of the orange tree (very rare in Southern Italy), the lemon tree (very common in southern Italy) and a type of grape I have never seen.  It is a white table grape – not used for wine.  But the shape is so different from what we see – this is long and crescent shaped. 

Orange Tree

Very large lemon

Table grape

Pergola

Cousins Rosolina and Palmina

Another reason for visiting Acquavella was to go to church.  The holiday for their patron saint day is approaching.    July 2^{nd will} be “La Festa in onore di Maria SS. Delle Grazie” However, for one week prior there is a mass every evening.  We attended last evening with the cousins.  The church is small but it was standing room only – I estimate 150+ people packed the church.  This is a very important occasion to the town.  We will attend the procession on the 2^nd as well as the festivities.  Below is a photo of the saint illuminated inside the church.   I apologize as it is not real clear.

Maria SS delle Grazie

We returned home after the service to eat dinner and then a walk around town and of course for some gelato!!  The perfect way to end the day!

Gelato - yum!!!

Sunday turned out to be one of those days – By that I mean you start out thinking it will go a certain way and it ends up 180 degrees different – but that is ok because in Italy it is always an adventure – especially if there are Gentiles involved.  Oh – by the way the cousin count went from 4 to 14 in a matter of 6 hours!

In the morning I went Kayaking with Luigi.  We walked to the beach - about 1 minute from the house!  We launched the kayak at the shoreline and took off out to sea.  Well not really out that far but we stayed along the shoreline and paddled the kayak down to Pioppi – which is about 3 kilometers (1.8 miles) by road.  Pioppi is another beautiful seaside village.  I wish I could have taken photos but I couldn’t bring my camera along – too much water and no place to store the camera while we paddled.  We turned around and paddled back – total trip took about 2 hours.  The water was very clear and a wonderful temperature. 

The afternoon was spent relaxing at the house – ragu would have to wait until tomorrow.  However around 6 p.m.  Angela had made plans for us to visit the older cousins, Carmela and Angelina, first cousins to my mom.  I thought we would be gone a few hours – we returned home at 1:30 a.m!!  On our way to Casalvelino Scalo Angela tells me that this village is celebrating today for their Patron Saint – St. Antonio.  Each village has a patron saint and once a year has a celebration.  Hearing this I know the evening will not be what either of us had planned. 

We first visited Carmela.  Carmela is now 84 years old and her health, both physical and mental, has declined since my last visit.  It is sad to see but I am so grateful I was able to spend time with her.  We then go upstairs to Cousin Giuseppe’s house and visit with him and his wife, Caterina.  While we are there I hear a band in the distance.  They tell me the procession has started.  The town carries a statue of the patron saint through the village – starting at the church, going through the town and ending back at the church.  After the procession the festival begins.   It will be one night only.  There will be fireworks, music, food and rides for the children.  It is very similar to our town fairs but on a much smaller scale – and without the procession.  So I took the opportunity to video the procession from the balcony of Giuseppe’s house. 

A few comments on the video – in the middle it becomes very shaky.  At that point, Giuseppe tells me our cousin Antonio is in the procession and waving to us.  My excitement got the best of me and I forgot I was filming (duh) but I regrouped and if you look closely you will see a couple waving to us – that is Cousin Antonio and his wife Anna. 

(*Technical editorial - I tried to add the video but I could not get it to work so I have loaded it on YouTube and have inserted the link  - let's hope this works)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW2dX-N1Xhc&feature=plcp

We are now off to visit Angelina.  As we walk from one house to the next – maybe 5 blocks – we meet another cousin and her husband at the festival.  We visit briefly and continue our walk.  At Angelina’s we sit outside so we can enjoy the fireworks display going on directly across from her house.  Angelina is 81 and still remembers everything, which is fantastic.  She remembers dates and events better than anyone.  She is also my teacher for pasta making.  I tell her I will visit her again for another lesson. 

We decide to stay in the village for the band concert that will start at 10 p.m.  As we walk toward the concert we meet up with Cousin Antonio and others (more cousins).  The concert lasts until after midnight.  The band really didn’t play that long BUT after the very first number they took a break?!?!?!?  I came to realize there was a very important soccer match being played – Italy vs. England.  They had to stop and watch the ending in the local bar – seriously.  Thank goodness Italy won as who knows if they would have finished the concert if Italy had lost.  When the band returned to the stage they of course played the Italian National Anthem.  They love their soccer!!  So Italy is now in the semi-finals of the Euro Cup.  That in itself will be a story to write about in future blog updates. 

After the concert we gathered at the local bar to discuss an upcoming family gathering – I am not sure anything was decided as the Italian was flowing heavy and fast and I could not keep up.  I am sure Angela will tell me where I need to be and when.  In the meantime I need to go take a nap – I am tired from all the excitement!  I have also included a few photos of the beautiful festival lights in the village.

Last night we took a walk into the country – which is basically about a 15 minute walk from the house.  But once there you find farm land – many pieces of land all together – not too many fences so everyone knows where their boundaries are.  Some gardens are very well defined and maintained.  Other land is not used for growing as the soil may not be as good or the owners just do not want to farm it.  Some owners have milk cows – each with their own bell so as they eat you hear the cow bells ringing – what a great sound. 

Luigi has land in the country.  This land is full of fruit trees so we stopped to pick some fruit and for me to ask a lot of questions.  The land has fig trees, apricot trees, and two types of plum trees. 

There are also two types of fig (fico) trees.  One type bears figs that will mature in August.  The other type bears two types of figs.  One type you can eat now and one type matures in August.  So we picked some ripe figs and ate them right off the tree.  The figs that will mature in August are those that will be dried and processed with a citrus flavor and a nut inside. 

Next we picked some apricots (albicocca) and ate them right off the tree.  They are small but very flavorful.  The plums (prugna) will not be ready for about 10 days.  There were 2 different type of plum trees – both a yellow/green color.  They do have the darker red/purple plums but none in Luigi’s garden.  The amazing thing about all these trees – they use no pesticides.  We ate the fruit right off the tree and didn’t even wash it.  The flavors were fantastic.  Luigi tells me the trees are about 60+ years old.  Oh – also a correction on the age of his house – it is 300+ years old not 500+ but what is 200 years among friends!!

There are many olive trees on our walk but most of Luigi’s olive trees are on different land that he owns up in the hillside.  The trees we saw will bear fruit in October to December.  Luigi’s trees will bear fruit later due to where they are planted.  This picture is of the small olives as they are just starting to grow. 

More later about my Sunday activities.  Kayaking  and watching my cousin, Angela make ragu or Bolognese sauce.  I have her recipe and tried it once but I clearly needed another lesson.  Could be a good time to try my first video!!

Fico - fig

Angela and Luigi

Albicocca

Prugna

Prugna

Oliva

Buongiorno from Casalvelino Marina!  I made it hear safe and sound - after 2 plane rides and 3 train rides - but it is well worth the effort.  And with each change I was being slowly immersed back into the Italian culture and language.  Mamma Mia - even with more Italian lessons these past two years I find it challenging to understand and speak the language.  But I know in a day or two it will start to sink it.  It has to - no one in the south speaks much english.  I was met at the train station by 3 of my cousins.  I think I have told many of you I have close to 100 cousins here in southern Italy - I think I will keep count this year.  Mind you they are 2nd, 3rd and 4th cousins....but we are definitely family.  Carmela (my mom) still has at least 4 first cousins living.  I will most likely see at least three of them while I am here.  Those visits are very special to me as they remember hearing stories of my grandfather from their fathers, his brothers. 

Once at the house (more on that below) and settled in I visited with Angela and family for awhile, had dinner then called it a night. Oh, another cousin stopped by so that makes 4 in the first 2 hours! This morning I woke up and took my usual morning stroll along the strada (street) that runs along the sea.  I had to see what changes had been made since my last visit.  The town center (piazza) is undergoing renovation so it is a bit of a mess but I am sure it will be wonderful when completed.  Most of the same little stores and bars (not like ours) are still there.  And thank goodness my favorite Gelateria (for gelato) is still there - Isola Verde!!!

Casalvelino Marina is a little resort town.  It is usually very quiet but in the summer months it comes alive with Italian families coming to the sea for holiday.  As I walked along the sea this morning the families had already staked their claim to their part of the beach and the children were already swimming and playing football (soccer) in the sand.  It appears there will be some type of market today as vendors were just setting up on the walkway near the sea - will have to investigate that later today.  I must go  grocery shopping first. 

So the photo below is Angela's house (where I am staying).  This is the same place I stayed in December on 2009.  This structure is 500+ years old and used to be a barn on the bottom floor and living quarters on the upper floors. The heat from the animals would rise to warm the rest of the structure.  Now the first floor is one living unit (where I am) and a Rostacceria.  In the photo you can see the arch (main entrance) and the Rostacceria is on the left.  That is similar to our take out food.  Here you can buy calzones, pizzettes (little pizzas), and other "roasted" foods.  One of my favorties is roasted zucchini flowers - yum!!!  Ok so back to the house.  My living unit (2 rooms) is behind the big rubber tree in the photo.  Angela's house is the two yellow/white awnings.  There is another living unit on the left.  The top floor was a living unit at one time but now is closed.  The entire structure belongs to Angela's husband, Luigi.  It was his families.  In Italy no one sells their property - is usally stays in the family for ever.  So I am settled in and ready to begin my holiday.  I do know there will be a festival in Acquavella on July 2nd - Festa della Madonna.  I am sure there will be other fun and different experiences as well to blog about so check back frequently. Also, if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment and I will respond.  That's all for now.  Till later..... Ciao, Ciao!!

Hello Family and Friends,

Most of you know I leave for Italy tomorrow for my summer holiday.  I have not been back since my Christmas trip of 2009.   During that trip I kept everyone updated through e-mail.  This year I have decided to publish a blog while I am there.  E-mail limits what type/size of attachments I can send and many of you are not on Facebook so I am going to venture into the world of “blogging”.  I am hoping to not only post photos on the blog but small video clips as well.  So here is the website – check it out and then watch for posts from me.  I land in Rome Friday at noon and then begin the train rides south.  I arrive in Vallo della Lucania about 6:30 p.m. Italy time on Friday.

Till sometime on Saturday....

Ciao,

KK

Acquavella looking west toward the sea!